2005 Bibi Graetz, Colore, Toscana

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

In 2005 Colore was made from the three best barrels in the cellar, consisting of one each Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Yields were a miniscule 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine possesses perfumed aromatics that meld into a seamless palate of perfumed dark red cherries, minerals and sweet toasted oak, with a darker flavor profile than the Testamatta. This medium-bodied red offers superb poise and balance, with a long, inviting finish. It too needs bottle age to reach its fullest potential. For readers looking at the $800 price tag, that is not a typo. It does represent a completely preposterous, egregious and delusional (you get the idea) approach to pricing, especially considering that Graetz, despite his unquestioned talent, has less than a decade of history under his belt. Colore is a beautiful wine, but its intrinsic value is perhaps in the neighborhood of $80 or so. The rest of the price is simply a play on the wine's scarcity (900 bottles produced) rather than a reflection of what is truly in the bottle. I can think of an infinite number of smarter and ultimately more rewarding ways to spend $800 dollars on wine, and my guess is Wine Advocate readers can too. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.