2009 Remirez de Ganuza, Reserva Tinto, Rioja

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The eponymous 2009 Reserva is a cuvée of Tempranillo and 10 Graciano, with some 5 of the volume extracted from the skin of the white Viura and Malvasia grapes that are used to ferment together, after the vinification of the white is done. As is usually the case here, it fermented in oak vats and went through malolactic in new barrels (mostly French) where it aged for two years. The difference between this wine and the Fincas from the same year is basically the vineyards used, which is a personal taste criteria of Fernando Remírez, so it changes from vintage to vintage. Then the rest of the process is the same. Here there is more structure, great power and sweet tannins with a very tasty finish. The wine has a modern profile and is still quite oaky, but I'm sure this wine will age in bottle to become much more classic. For comparisons sake, they were generous enough to uncork the 1992 and 1994 vintages of this wine, and they smell as classic as it gets; the 1992 was further developed, with more iodine aromas, more fragile, while the 1994 is still very young and lively. I believe this 2009 will grow into a very good, classic Rioja in bottle. (LG)