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  5. 2011 Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

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2011 Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

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Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 10567892011

Start Your Wine Collection with 2011 Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

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Critics Scores

BURGHOUND.COM
95

Burghound.com

(from a 1.5 ha parcel that is roughly divided in .90 ha of terres rouges and .60 ha of terres blanches, the latter of which has the slightly older vines; in 2011 the blend is 55% terres blanches and 45% terres rouges) This is also brilliantly perfumed if not quite as elegant as the Amoureuses with its broad ranging nose of earth, red currant, plum liqueur and lovely floral notes. There is a firm minerality to the remarkably rich, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors that possess both excellent volume and first-rate punch on the hugely long and youthfully austere finish. This is a stunner of a wine that will need pretty much all of 15 years, and perhaps even 20, to arrive at its full majority.

VINOUS
94

Vinous

A vivid, powerful wine, the 2011 Bonnes-Mares impresses for its nuance, detail and huge, imposing structure. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2011 is remarkably crystalline for such a big wine. A host of blue/blackish fruit intermingled with violets, spices and balsamic notes wrap around the palate on the finish. This is a rare 2011 that will require significant cellaring. If there is one Roumier wine I would want to own on regular basis, it is the Bonnes-Mares.

JOHN GILMAN
96

John Gilman

After tasting the two constituent components (the terres rouges and terres blanches sections of the vineyard), it is very easy to appreciate that the blended Bonnes-Mares is superior to either component on its own, and the 2011 is going to be a stunning wine! The glorious and youthful nose offers up a magical mélange of red and black cherries, red plums, cocoa, brilliant minerality, woodsmoke, gamebirds, mustard seed and a delicate framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and utterly complete, with a rock solid core of sappy fruit, stunning soil inflection, ripe tannins and great focus and grip on the very long, suave and still quite primary finish. A great wine.

WINE SPECTATOR
95

Wine Spectator

This seductive red offers black cherry, sandalwood and floral aromas and flavors balanced on a rich texture. Dense, featuring lively acidity, with well-integrated tannins providing support on the long and concentrated finish.

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
93

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is blessed with a fragrant bouquet of dried violet petals, hints of burnt toast and plenty of black fruit vying for attention, however, it needs a couple of years to fully coalesce. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins on the entry. This is a big wine, filling the mouth with ease with layers of black fruit, tobacco and a saline tang on the aftertaste. It is quite austere on the finish at the moment. (NM)

BURGHOUND
95

Burghound

(from a 1.5 ha parcel that is roughly divided in .90 ha of terres rouges and .60 ha of terres blanches, the latter of which has the slightly older vines; in 2011 the blend is 55 terres blanches and 45 terres rouges) This is also brilliantly perfumed if not quite as elegant as the Amoureuses with its broad ranging nose of earth, red currant, plum liqueur and lovely floral notes. There is a firm minerality to the remarkably rich, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors that possess both excellent volume and first-rate punch on the hugely long and youthfully austere finish. This is a stunner of a wine that will need pretty much all of 15 years, and perhaps even 20, to arrive at its full majority.

Region Summary

Small in size but mighty in influence, Burgundy is home to some of the most sought-after and investment-worthy wines on Earth. Legendary vineyards and centuries of winemaking tradition combine to produce incomparably powerful pinot noirs and subtle chardonnays. Add in extremely low annual yields, and it’s easy to see why Burgundy’s prices are second to none.

Why We're Investing

Pound for pound, Burgundy (or Bourgogne to the locals) produces more expensive, high-appreciating wines than any other wine region. According to Liv-ex, Burgundy is also the best-performing region over the last five years, ten years, and 15 years. There’s no reason to think that will change anytime soon. That’s because Burgundians are obsessed with winegrowing. The fixation on slopes, soil, and sunlight is a way of life. And while demand is high, two historical figures have ensured that this world-class wine is increasingly produced in smaller and smaller quantities. First are the Cistercians, an order of Catholic monks founded in the 11th century who owned extensive property in Burgundy. They noticed that each of their vineyards produced slightly different wines based on the soil and sunlight. This realization laid the foundation for the region’s vineyard lines and its fixation with terroir. Today, French law protects vineyard lines, which prevents the expansion of property. But aren’t other regions like this? Not quite. Châteaux and producers in Bordeaux, Champagne, and elsewhere can source grapes from other vineyards for their wine. That is not the case in Burgundy. A vigneron cannot expand production unless they buy more land in their existing vineyard. That requires finding a willing seller, something that is rarer than most top-shelf Burgundies. The second important figure is Napoleon. (Yes, that Napoleon.) His Napoleonic Code required the equal distribution of inherited property and land amongst heirs. As a result, Burgundy’s vineyards are becoming further fragmented with each generation. Some prestigious winemakers have no more than one row of vines to their name. That’s not all. Burgundy has a semi-continental climate that contributes to low annual yields. A single severe frost or hail can decimate a harvest, even limiting the production of some wines to a single barrel. With unpredictable weather leaving yields in limbo each year, names like Domaine Leroy, Armand Rosseau, and Joseph Drouhin command a premium at auctions. Taken to the extreme, a single bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti once sold for $558,000 at auction, a then-world record.

What's the Latest

Historically, Bordeaux has dominated the secondary wine market, once accounting for 96 of the trade by value. Buyers viewed Burgundy as too risky and fickle because of its semi-continental climate that contributed to inconsistent vintages. Modern technological advances in viticulture and vinification have offset some climate challenges, and Burgundy has rapidly gained market share. In 2022, Burgundy reached its highest percentage of trade by value at 51.0, temporarily eclipsing Bordeaux atop the wine world. People aren’t just investing in more Burgundy. They’re investing in different kinds of Burgundy wine, too. Over the last three years, the number of different Burgundies traded on the secondary market has risen 284. Consumer demand has expanded beyond the top sub-regions like Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, and there is still room to grow. Perhaps most importantly, Burgundy remains resilient even in bumpy economic times. The iconic French region delivers what collectors and connoisseurs want most – brand equity, liquidity, and an extensive track record of growth. It makes Burgundy an easy asset to appreciate in any economic climate.

Looking Forward

The insatiable demand for Burgundy has taken the region to stratospheric heights. According to Liv-ex, the Burgundy 150 grew 39.3 in 2021. That was the second-best mark of any wine region, behind only Champagne at 41.5. Experts predict that momentum will carry into the coming years. Charles Antin, an auctioneer and head of wine auction sales at Zachys, put it this way, “We’re still setting world records for certain wines, but the graph can’t go up as steeply as it has, forever. My prediction is a cooling off, not a falling, but continuing to rise in the long run.” Even with climbing prices, eagle-eyed Vinovestors can still find remarkable deals. For instance, 2015 Domaine Leroy Musigny Grand Cru was released at $2,000 per bottle. Today, it retails for more than $100,000, if you can find it. Meanwhile, 2020 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet debuted at $1,600 per bottle, a bargain for anyone lucky enough to get their hands on a bottle.