2013 Keller, G-Max, Rheinhessen

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Nobody – except of the one or the other retailer and all the trainees – will ever know where the expensive, iconic G-Max is sourced from. It's surely from a limestone site but is it Kirchspiel, Morstein, Brunnenhäuschen (Abtserde), Hubacker or another single vineyard site? Try to find it out – it would be a fascinating task since you could not disgrace yourself like I would. The perfume of the 2013 Riesling trocken G-Max is fascinatingly clear, fresh, complex and concentrated: crushed rocks, spinach, basil and spices are intertwined with steely, iron, and chalky aromas but also peach, lemons and paprika. Full-bodied and highly complex, this is a dense, vibrant, extremely tension-filled, electrifying, long-distance runner of a Riesling that is firmly structured and full of citrus flavors in the finish that is extremely long, long, and longer as it leads to a persistently piquant aftertaste. Although I was always a sceptic of legendary wines with no declared origin, this is surely an absolutely fascinating and multilayered wine to keep for at least 5 years.