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2014 Paolo Scavino, Barolo, Bric Fiasc

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Paolo Scavino, Barolo, Bric Fiasc 11050092014

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Critics Scores

WINE ENTHUSIAST
97

Wine Enthusiast

Fragrant and full-bodied, this dazzling red opens with enticing scents of rose petal, blue flower, wild berry and a whiff of camphor. Elegantly structured, the polished, full-bodied palate delivers succulent morello cherry and raspberry compote, while licorice, tobacco and vanilla accents add depth. It’s impeccably balanced, with fresh acidity. Without a doubt this is one of the best 2014Barolos out there. Drink 2022–2034.

DECANTER
94

Decanter

Scavino produced wines from most of their single vineyards in 2014, and this, from Castiglione Falletto, is the finest of them all. The raspberry-scented nose is ripe, juicy and packed with fruit, while the palate is full-bodied and rich, dense without being too extracted, exhibiting spice and energy. Fine acidity gives tension and drive, and the finish is long and peppery.

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
94

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

This is one of my favorite single-vineyard 2014 Barolos from the Scavino family. Fruit for the 2014 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc is sourced from the Fiasco vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. You might guess this by the wine's trademarked fantasy name "Bric dël Fiasc." The family farms a large swath of the Fiasco vineyard, but this wine is made with fruit from a 2.5-hectare section at the center of the cru. It enjoys southeast exposures with both marl and sandy deposits. This complex mix of Tortonian and Helvetian soils makes for a tight, interwoven patchwork. This helps to develop both elegance and power, and you get both in generous supply with this wine. Enrico Scavino realized he had something special during fermentation, and the wine has continued to develop beautifully since then. It boasts finely textured tannins that contribute to the overall structure and firmness. This is an age-worthy Barolo that reveals depth and determination.

WINE SPECTATOR
93

Wine Spectator

This red’s cherry and strawberry fruit is matched by juniper, sun-kissed hay, oak spice and tar flavors. Firm and elegant, with fine balance and length. Needs some time to show all its facets. Best from 2023 through 2038.

Region Summary

Critics and collectors have anointed Piedmont (or Piemonte locally) the “Burgundy of Italy,” and with good reason. The region shares a border with France and has adopted many of its neighbor’s more modern winemaking philosophies. Today, local winemakers display a borderline-obsessive focus on small-batch, artisanal wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco.

Why We're Investing

There’s a not-so-secret recipe to produce highly collectible wine. It’s called the law of supply and demand. Piedmont is one of the few regions to have mastered it. Let’s start with supply. Piedmont has earned comparisons to Burgundy for its rarity and exclusivity. Estates primarily produce single-grape wines in minuscule quantities from specialized vineyards. Nebbiolo is the grape of choice in Piedmont, whereas Burgundy favors pinot noir. Take Barolo, for example, an ultra-age-worthy nebbiolo known as the ‘wine of kings and king of wines.’ The sub-region, which produces a wine of the same name, spans fewer than 5,000 acres. That is roughly the size of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuit. Barbaresco is even smaller at one-third the size. Because of the compact geographic area and estates’ commitment to small-scale winemaking, even the most popular Barolo and Barbaresco are constantly in limited supply. The second factor is demand. Like Burgundy, Piedmont has strung together multiple outstanding vintages, most notably in 2010, 2013, 2015, and 2016. Critics have taken note, too. In an interview with Liv-ex, Antonio Galloni said, “interest for Barolo and Piedmont has never been higher.” Glowing critic scores have led to a swell in demand for Piedmontese wine, especially for internationally renowned names like Gaja and Giacomo Conterno. Now, here is where the similarities between Burgundy and Piedmont end. While Burgundy dominates any list of the most expensive wines, Piedmont remains relatively affordable and under the radar. That’s despite the two regions’ comparable critic scores, wine quality, and centuries of tradition. Top Barolo and Barbaresco are roughly a quarter of the price of red Burgundy and half the price of first-growth Bordeaux. The reason? Most of the vineyards in Piedmont are family-owned. Meanwhile, other prominent wine regions, like Napa Valley and Tuscany, have grown through corporate investments that have resulted in corresponding price surges. This dichotomy makes Piedmont an enigma. Even though the region has some of the world’s top cult estates, most of its wines have relatively affordable price tags and attractive value. As a result, anyone looking to access the fine wine market without spending a fortune can take solace in Piedmont.

What's the Latest

Tuscany has long been the bellwether of the Italian fine wine market. That’s changing. Piedmont continues to gain market share thanks to its brand strength and consummate quality. According to Liv-ex, Piedmont accounts for 43.4 of Italy’s total trade, a figure that was a mere 11.4 in 2015. The surge in interest has corresponded with a rise in prices for top Piedmontese wine. The Liv-ex Italy 100 index recorded 9.2 growth in 2022, the third-best market among all indices last year. That’s no fluke, either. The Italy 100 has grown 303 in its first 19 years, which translates to an average annualized return of 7.58.

Looking Forward

Piedmont may be small, but it is mighty. It has all the hallmarks of an investment-worthy region, including brand equity, consistent quality, and low volume. Each year, more critics and collectors recognize that Piedmont’s top wines are on par with elite ones in France and California, and the prices have followed. Collectors would be wise to add Piedmontese wines while prices remain accessible. Piedmont has made impressive strides in the last decade and should benefit from technological innovations like transparent marketplaces and automated trading. This modernization would bring more attention to the region and improve liquidity. If volume and value continue their upward trend, look for Piedmont to close the gap on Tuscany in trade share in the coming years.