2015 Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Cinq Terroirs

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroir comes from five parcels from around the appellation and it includes 30 whole bunch and 30 new oak. It has a vibrant bouquet, a melange of blue and black fruit that lends it a Fixin-like personality. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin that are filigree. This has a silky texture, perfectly judged acidity and disarming purity on the finish. This is premier cru quality—period. It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine. (NM) 92-94