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2016 Comte Armand, Pommard Premier Cru, Clos des Epeneaux

Bottle size (ML)

Current price

$679
Comte Armand, Pommard Premier Cru, Clos des Epeneaux 10265242016

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Critics Scores

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
95

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux contains 10 whole-bunch fruit. I tasted from two cuvées, one from the young vines and one from the old. The young vines has clean and pure black cherry, red plum and lightly blueberry fruit that conveys a sense of energy. The palate is well balanced with succulent ripe black fruit, very fine tannin, a taut line of acidity but real complexity and tension from start to finish. I love the harmony and effortlessness of these younger vines. The cuvée from older vines demonstrated more black fruit with traces of undergrowth, a little more rondeur with impressive depth and structure on the persistent, marine/oyster shell-tinged finish. This has enormous potential and may challenge the supremacy of the 2015.

BURGHOUND
94

Burghound

A background whiff of wood easily allows the earthy yet quite pretty aromas of plum, violet, dark cherry and soft spice nuances to shine. The mouth feel of the slightly bigger and richer flavors is also admirably sleek while delivering excellent length on the mouth coating and well-balanced finish. This is perhaps a bit less structured than is usually the case as it should be reasonably approachable young if that's your preference.

BURGHOUND.COM
94

Burghound.com

A background whiff of wood easily allows the earthy yet quite pretty aromas of plum, violet, dark cherry and soft spice nuances to shine. The mouth feel of the slightly bigger and richer flavors is also admirably sleek while delivering excellent length on the mouth coating and well-balanced finish. This is perhaps a bit less structured than is usually the case as it should be reasonably approachable young if that's your preference.

DECANTER
93

Decanter

The Clos des Epeneaux is again very successful this year, and after two decades of oaky, over-extracted wines from this address, it's a real pleasure to see the inherent elegance of this great terroir beginning to shine forth, unobscured by obtrusive winemaking. Aromas of wild berries, dried rose petal, rich soil, orange rind and summer truffle precede a full-bodied wine with a chassis of fine-grained tannins, a generous core of sweet fruit and a sapid, penetrating finish. It’s clear that the talented Paul Zinetti is consummating the move away from aggressive extraction and impactful new oak that had already begun under Benjamin Leroux. (WK)

VINOUS
94

Vinous

(I tasted the younger- and older-vine components of this wine, followed by the press wine and an approximation of the final blend, which will be bottled with about 13.5 alcohol): Sample from the younger vines (45 of the blend; vinified with 15 whole clusters): Good dark red. Slightly medicinal aromas of red cherry and licorice. Surprisingly dry and backward, with its cherry fruit complicated by pungent licorice and herb notes. Finishes rather suave if a bit tart, with lingering notes of bitter cherry and herbs. Sample from the old vines (45 of the blend; from vines 67 to 93 years of age): Bright, dark red. Distinctly darker and riper on the nose than the younger vines, offering aromas of blueberry, black raspberry and spices. A step up in volume as well, with its dark raspberry and licorice flavors complicated by a licorice note. Very firmly structured wine with a longer, more tactile finish. From the press wine (to comprise about 10 of the blend): Softer, fatter and slightly saline. Finishes a bit tart but this juice should fill in the middle of the blend. An approximation of the final blend: Healthy dark red. Slight medicinal cast to the aromas of cherry, redcurrant and menthol. By far the best and most complete of these samples, offering serious low-yield richness but also terrific definition and energy. This sample somehow displayed captivating violet and mineral notes that were not apparent in any of its components. Lovely depth and restrained sweetness here...(ST)

Region Summary

Small in size but mighty in influence, Burgundy is home to some of the most sought-after and investment-worthy wines on Earth. Legendary vineyards and centuries of winemaking tradition combine to produce incomparably powerful pinot noirs and subtle chardonnays. Add in extremely low annual yields, and it’s easy to see why Burgundy’s prices are second to none.

Why We're Investing

Pound for pound, Burgundy (or Bourgogne to the locals) produces more expensive, high-appreciating wines than any other wine region. According to Liv-ex, Burgundy is also the best-performing region over the last five years, ten years, and 15 years. There’s no reason to think that will change anytime soon. That’s because Burgundians are obsessed with winegrowing. The fixation on slopes, soil, and sunlight is a way of life. And while demand is high, two historical figures have ensured that this world-class wine is increasingly produced in smaller and smaller quantities. First are the Cistercians, an order of Catholic monks founded in the 11th century who owned extensive property in Burgundy. They noticed that each of their vineyards produced slightly different wines based on the soil and sunlight. This realization laid the foundation for the region’s vineyard lines and its fixation with terroir. Today, French law protects vineyard lines, which prevents the expansion of property. But aren’t other regions like this? Not quite. Châteaux and producers in Bordeaux, Champagne, and elsewhere can source grapes from other vineyards for their wine. That is not the case in Burgundy. A vigneron cannot expand production unless they buy more land in their existing vineyard. That requires finding a willing seller, something that is rarer than most top-shelf Burgundies. The second important figure is Napoleon. (Yes, that Napoleon.) His Napoleonic Code required the equal distribution of inherited property and land amongst heirs. As a result, Burgundy’s vineyards are becoming further fragmented with each generation. Some prestigious winemakers have no more than one row of vines to their name. That’s not all. Burgundy has a semi-continental climate that contributes to low annual yields. A single severe frost or hail can decimate a harvest, even limiting the production of some wines to a single barrel. With unpredictable weather leaving yields in limbo each year, names like Domaine Leroy, Armand Rosseau, and Joseph Drouhin command a premium at auctions. Taken to the extreme, a single bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti once sold for $558,000 at auction, a then-world record.

What's the Latest

Historically, Bordeaux has dominated the secondary wine market, once accounting for 96 of the trade by value. Buyers viewed Burgundy as too risky and fickle because of its semi-continental climate that contributed to inconsistent vintages. Modern technological advances in viticulture and vinification have offset some climate challenges, and Burgundy has rapidly gained market share. In 2022, Burgundy reached its highest percentage of trade by value at 51.0, temporarily eclipsing Bordeaux atop the wine world. People aren’t just investing in more Burgundy. They’re investing in different kinds of Burgundy wine, too. Over the last three years, the number of different Burgundies traded on the secondary market has risen 284. Consumer demand has expanded beyond the top sub-regions like Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, and there is still room to grow. Perhaps most importantly, Burgundy remains resilient even in bumpy economic times. The iconic French region delivers what collectors and connoisseurs want most – brand equity, liquidity, and an extensive track record of growth. It makes Burgundy an easy asset to appreciate in any economic climate.

Looking Forward

The insatiable demand for Burgundy has taken the region to stratospheric heights. According to Liv-ex, the Burgundy 150 grew 39.3 in 2021. That was the second-best mark of any wine region, behind only Champagne at 41.5. Experts predict that momentum will carry into the coming years. Charles Antin, an auctioneer and head of wine auction sales at Zachys, put it this way, “We’re still setting world records for certain wines, but the graph can’t go up as steeply as it has, forever. My prediction is a cooling off, not a falling, but continuing to rise in the long run.” Even with climbing prices, eagle-eyed Vinovestors can still find remarkable deals. For instance, 2015 Domaine Leroy Musigny Grand Cru was released at $2,000 per bottle. Today, it retails for more than $100,000, if you can find it. Meanwhile, 2020 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet debuted at $1,600 per bottle, a bargain for anyone lucky enough to get their hands on a bottle.