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2017 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Cailleret

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Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Cailleret 10685282017

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Critics Scores

BURGHOUND.COM
91

Burghound.com

There is a touch of the exotic in evidence here as well with an exceptionally fresh and softly oaked mix of white and yellow orchard fruit aromas that include white peach, apricot and a floral hint. The seductively textured yet impressively dense medium weight plus flavors are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate on the powerful, lightly stony focused and nicely long finish. This is presently less complex than the best of these 1ers though it could well develop more depth with bottle age and if it does my rating could be a bit too conservative.

BURGHOUND
91

Burghound

There is a touch of the exotic in evidence here as well with an exceptionally fresh and softly oaked mix of white and yellow orchard fruit aromas that include white peach, apricot and a floral hint. The seductively textured yet impressively dense medium weight plus flavors are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate on the powerful, lightly stony focused and nicely long finish. This is presently less complex than the best of these 1ers though it could well develop more depth with bottle age and if it does my rating could be a bit too conservative.

VINOUS
94

Vinous

A hint of reduction to the aromas of pear, stone, menthol and herbs; a bit wild in a positive way. Dense, rich and sappy, with its touch of sweetness perfectly countered by crushed-stone minerality. At once broad and vibrant, with tactile flavors of grapefruit pith, lemon and flowers conveying a subtly salty character. Really resounds on the long back end.

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
93

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Offering up aromas of apple blossom, crisp orchard fruit, dried white flowers and honeycomb, the lovely 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is medium to full-bodied, satiny and expansive, with a lovely line of animating acidity, a deep core and a long, pure finish. As usual, Cécile Fontaine had bottled her 2017s just before harvest 2018, so I had the pleasure of tasting finished wines that will be entirely representative of the bottles that readers can buy. Succulent and defined by site, it's a lovely vintage at this address—which I've been visiting since my student days—and one that plays to the strengths of the domaine's pure, elegant and aromatic house style. Thanks to the generous crops of 2017 and 2018, plans are afoot to extend the domaine's cellars, opening up the possibility of longer sur lie élevage. Perhaps more space will permit other refinements of technique, too? My suggested drinking windows for these wines err on the side of caution, as in the past Fontaine-Gagnard has suffered from the scourge of premature oxidation, a problem that Céline is the first to acknowledge, but they are beautifully balanced wines so in a perfect world they might well mature in the cellar for quite a lot longer. (WK)