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2017 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 10686032017

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Critics Scores

BURGHOUND.COM
94

Burghound.com

A restrained and ever-so-mildly exotic nose features notes of mandarin orange, melon, mango and floral nuances. The silky and highly seductive broad-shouldered yet refined flavors brim with mouth coating dry extract before terminating in a beautifully persistent, complex, balanced and harmonious finish. This is excellent and while it will clearly amply reward extended cellaring, it should be approachable after only 5-ish years.

BURGHOUND
94

Burghound

A restrained and ever-so-mildly exotic nose features notes of mandarin orange, melon, mango and floral nuances. The silky and highly seductive broad-shouldered yet refined flavors brim with mouth coating dry extract before terminating in a beautifully persistent, complex, balanced and harmonious finish. This is excellent and while it will clearly amply reward extended cellaring, it should be approachable after only 5-ish years.

DECANTER
94

Decanter

Criots faces south so gets lots of sun, but the high percentage of clay in its soils meant that it didn't suffer from heat stress in 2017. It's still a comparatively plush, richly upholstered white, with stone fruit flavours, a hint of guava and enough acidity to freshen the finish.

VINOUS
95

Vinous

(These old vines, some of which were planted in the 1930s, produce very small grapes and "never a big yield" according to Fontaine): Bright lemon-yellow. The nose offers a wet stone aroma along with an element of honey. Fat and dense, even glyceral, but with surprising lemony acidity neutralizing its slight impression of sweetness. Conveys an impression of substantial alcohol but not particularly honeyed in the mouth. Finishes savory and smooth, with lovely building length. A potentially superb vintage for this bottling.

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
94

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Despite its warm mesoclimate, Céline Fontaine told me that the 2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru didn't suffer in the dry August weather. As usual, the wine is rich and dramatic, bursting with a musky bouquet of mandarin orange, honeycomb, citrus blossom and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and succulent, with an ample, textural attack but nice purity and delineation on the finish. The most precocious grand cru in the cellar, it will drink well out of the gates.