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2017 Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
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Start Your Wine Collection with 2017 Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
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Critics Scores
John Gilman
As I noted last year, with the addition of an additional half hectare of vines in BonnesMares through a mettayage agreement, the balance of this cuvée has been shifted towards terres blanches and the wine seems to have a bit more chalk-derived raciness to its personality in the last two years. The 2017 Bonnes-Mares is going to be absolutely brilliant, as the wine offers up a deep, refined and properly reserved aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, plums, raw cocoa, a very complex base of minerality, gamebird, woodsmoke and a deft touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with a beautiful stylistic combination of sappiness and great transparency, ripe, buried tannins and stunning length and grip on the poised, perfectly balanced and oh, so promising finish. This is a brilliant and very elegant, young Bonnes-Mares. 2032-2100.
Vinous
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose when I visited (Christophe Roumier was taken aback, as it had been racked three weeks earlier). Fortunately, the palate shows great potential; it's as beautifully balanced as ever, with a fine bead of acidity. This is more understated and less outgoing than other vintages encountered from barrel, and not quite as persistent on the finish, but with a fine dash of black pepper on the aftertaste. There is something very assured about this Bonnes-Mares, though this year, it is Les Amoureuses that sends tingles down the spine.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is one of the wines of the vintage this year, unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of red and black cherries, espresso roast, dark chocolate, peony and subtle hints of forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered, with striking concentration and dimension, rich but fine-grained structuring tannins and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with a finish that's simultaneously chalky and distinctly floral. This will be one of the most long-lived 2017 red Burgundies.
Decanter
The Roumier holdings, divided one-third red soils to two-thirds white, add up to 1.89ha over six parcels - if only the domaine had as much Musigny! This shows the richer, meatier notes of Bonnes Mares, with savoury tannins, underlying power and a fresh, chalky finish. A very good expression of the grand cru. Drinking Window 2025 - 2032.