2017 Hubert Lamy, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Tremblots

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots offers up aromas of lime zest, lemon oil, white flowers and crushed chalk, followed by a medium-bodied, chalky and tensile palate that's bright and mouthwatering, structured around considerable dry extract. The 2017 vintage is a terrific success for Olivier Lamy, and he has produced a collection that includes several of the white wines of the vintage. As his meticulous and thoughtful viticulture, a source of inspiration for other vignerons up and down the Côte, delivers ever better grapes, Lamy is working with more foulage (where grapes are crushed before they are pressed) and longer press cycles, capturing more structuring—and refreshing—dry extract. Several of the wines reviewed here thus display a distinctly phenolic quality. Carefully thought out sulfur additions and bottling practices also bode well for their evolution, though note that after experimentation Lamy continues to feel that natural cork, for all its problems, offers the best available closure for his wines. As a coda, I encourage readers to acquaint themselves with Lamy's perfumed, mouthwatering reds that offer immensely pleasurable drinking and which seem to get better every year.(WK)