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2017 Pagodes de Cos, Saint-Estephe

Bottle size (ML)

Current price

$336
Pagodes de Cos, Saint-Estephe 10136452017

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Critics Scores

JEB DUNNUCK
90

Jeb Dunnuck

Deeper ruby-colored and based on 56 Cabernet Sauvignon, 42 Merlot, and 1 each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2017 Pagodes De Cos is similarly hued to the grand vin and offers classy notes of creme de cassis, red currants, toasted spice, dried tobacco, and graphite. It's rich, medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, yet relatively closed on the palate. Give bottles 2-4 years and enjoy over the coming decade. Rating: 90+

WINE ENTHUSIAST
93

Wine Enthusiast

This wine has velvet tannins and lusciously ripe black fruits. Despite the tannins, the it is more about fruit and ripeness than about structure. Drink 2022.

TIM ATKIN
95

Tim Atkin

Inky purple colour. Intense spicy aromas inviting deep fruit. Very intense and creamy textured with soft red and black fruits and rounded tannins. Juicy black fruit. Huge extraction and depth with powerful tannins, rounded black fruit and fresh acidity. Deep and long finish. Very good indeed.

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
92

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

A blend of 56 Cabernet Sauvignon, 42 Merlot, 1 Cabernet Franc and 1 Petit Verdot, this second wine accounts for about 55 of production. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Les Pagodes de Cos sashays out of the glass with youthful, presumptuous notes of Black Forest cake, raspberry preserves, cassis and spice cake with nuances of lavender, chocolate box, anise and underbrush. Medium-bodied, the palate has wonderful elegance and precision, with a very finely grained frame and seamless freshness supporting the soft-spoken red and black fruits, finishing with a quiet intensity.

Region Summary

Located in southwest France, Bordeaux is home to some of the most famous, expensive, and sought-after wines in the world. Even in an increasingly competitive industry, the region reigns supreme with the largest market share by value. With everything from classic red blends to sumptuous whites, it’s easy to see why Bordeaux is the epicenter of the fine wine universe.

Why We're Investing

Bordeaux has long set the market for fine wine. To understand why, we need to take a journey back in time. In 1855, Bordeaux's Syndicate of Courtier created a first-of-its-kind wine classification system at the behest of Napolean III, the emperor of France. The courtiers divided châteaux into five tiers to help people understand which wineries were worth a splurge (first and second growths) and which ones were just okay (fifth growths). Despite its flaws, of which there are several, this historical ranking system is still in use today. The 1855 Bordeaux Classification fostered near-mythic reputations around first and second growth producers. As a result, these brands trade at a premium and do not endure the same fluctuations in demand as other lower-tier producers. More importantly, the Bordeaux Classification is borderline permanent for châteaux on the Left Bank. Since its inception, only two changes have been made. The permanence creates a rigid hierarchy where châteaux are valued by their name and classification. Even if an estate changes ownership, merges with another winery, or makes better wine, it will still be judged primarily on its name and classification. By comparison, wines in Burgundy are evaluated on their vineyards instead of the name on the label. Here’s another way to think about it: the most revered châteaux today are largely the same as the ones in 1855. For buyers, that means one thing: predictability. They can rely on steady performance from Left Bank châteaux over the long run, with ups or downs depending on the vintage. The Right Bank uses a different classification system that is a little less permanent, but the benefits for top estates are no less impactful. The one wild card is the weather. For the most part, Bordeaux has a mild maritime climate. Summers rarely exceed 86°F (30°C), and winters seldom dip below freezing. However, frost and mildew can topple the grape cart. Bordeaux’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean means winter air may become trapped in the vineyards and decimate a harvest. Small annual weather differences contribute to significant vintage variations, making Bordeaux a fascinating region to follow. Case and point: Bordeaux’s en primeur campaign, also known as wine futures. Each year, people can invest in a wine vintage while it is still in the barrel. The campaign gives châteaux an influx of capital and wine enthusiasts the possibility of buying wine below market value. Because the château names and classifications remain static, people often turn to the vintage quality and critic scores to determine investment-worthiness. It should come as no surprise that excellent vintages like 2008 and 2019 have handsomely rewarded those who invested en primeur.

What's the Latest

Once upon a time, Bordeaux had a stranglehold on the wine industry. According to Liv-ex, it accounted for more than 96 of the wine traded by value on the secondary market. That stranglehold has loosened in recent years. In 2021, Bordeaux’s trade share slipped below 40 for the first time. The following year, it hit 32. Tuscany and Napa Valley have gained ground in that time. However, Burgundy remains the biggest threat to Bordeaux’s crown, eclipsing Bordeaux in price performance and the number of unique wines traded per year. Don’t feel too bad for Bordeaux. It’s still thriving at auctions. In March 2019, a seven-hour auction of Château Lafite Rothschild brought in $7.86 million. A few days later, bottles of Bordeaux and Burgundy wines sold for $30 million, setting the record for the most expensive private wine collection. That’s not all. Demand is growing well beyond its biggest and brightest names. In 2010, first growths made up 61.9 of Bordeaux’s total market share. As of 2022, that number has dropped to 32.6. In that time, the number of Bordeaux wines traded on the secondary market has doubled, allowing lower-tier Bordeaux wines with attractive prices to share in the spotlight.

Looking Forward

Even amid economic headwinds, Bordeaux delivers exactly what consumers want - high-quality wines, sufficient volume, and (mostly) reasonable prices. While the region wouldn’t deliver instant returns aside from a fortuitous en primeur campaign, top tier châteaux have a long track record of enriching patient collectors. Any portfolio with Bordeaux can expect an unmatched combination of liquidity, brand strength, and quality. The region is ideal for anyone looking to minimize risk over the long term. Even with competitors coming for its throne, Bordeaux should maintain its status as a portfolio cornerstone for years to come.