2017 Pierre Boisson, Bourgogne, Blanc

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Wafting from the glass with aromas of white currants spring flowers and green apple Boisson's 2017 Bourgogne Blanc is medium to full-bodied satiny and attractively complete with racy acids and a long mouthwatering finish. Bernard Boisson presided as usual over my annual visit to his family's cellars but I tasted only one wine bearing his Boisson-Vadot label for which 2016 is the last vintage. His holdings have now been entirely divided between his son Pierre and daughter Anne who work together in the vineyards and cellar (readers will find all the family's wines reviewed under their own entries in this report). As I wrote last year in his day Bernard Boisson was one of the village's latest harvesters and his wines only spent a year on the lees with much of the production sold to the négociants. With Pierre's arrival at the domaine some 15 years ago that has changed dramatically: the domaine has returned as Bernard puts it to do things as they were done in his grandfather's era. That means early harvesting little débourbage long sur-lie élevage ranging from 19 to 22 months and restrained use of new oak—up to 30 largely from Saint-Romain's Tonnellerie Gillet. The entire production is now bottled without filtration. The Boissons' Bourgogne Blanc Auxey-Duresses Les Cloux Meursault Les Criots and Meursault Les Grands Charrons are all bottled under Pierre's label.