2018 E. Guigal, Hermitage, Ex Voto Rouge

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

To my mind, the 2018 Ermitage Ex Voto represents something of a breakthrough for this cuvée. Marked by an intense crème de framboise character, it offers fabulous fruit and tremendous concentration without any sense of heaviness. It's full-bodied but comes across as silky and lacy in structure, with a long, mouthwatering finish. Bravo. Tasting at Guigal is always one of the highlights of my Northern Rhône trip. Because of the family's breadth of production and hallmark long élevage, it provides a chance to look at several vintages together, along with commentary from the knowledgeable patriarch, Marcel Guigal. This year, I was joined by Marcel, his son Philippe and Jacques Desvernois, hired away from Jaboulet in the summer of 2018, for a five-hour marathon in the chilly cellar beneath the company's headquarters in Ampuis. Despite the cool temperatures, there were smiles all around at the quality of the samples on the table. "Global warming has been fabulous for the Northern Rhône," said Marcel at one point. (JC)