2019 Clos Saint Jean, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Sanctus Sanctorum

Jeb Dunnuck

Lastly, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum is one of those wines that’s hard to describe as it seems to change every time you come back to it. Offering a more translucent ruby hue as well as a smorgasbord-like array of blackberries, black raspberries, violets, Provençal garrigue, ground pepper, flowers, and smoke, it’s a dream wine in every sense. All Grenache from a single parcel in the La Crau lieu-dit, brought up in used demi-muids, it hits the palate with flawless balance, a powerful, full-bodied mouthfeel, perfectly ripe tannins, and a gorgeous finish. As with the other cuvées here, it has the fruit, texture, and balance to offer pleasure today yet is going to benefit from 4–5 years of bottle age and cruise for two decades.